Keith McNally and Vanity Fair appear to have entered another chapter in the restaurateur’s increasingly entertaining relationship with the media—and, naturally, McNally is not holding back.
Following a new Vanity Fair profile about British chef Thomas Straker, McNally took to Instagram to express his displeasure with the piece and its portrayal of the chef. The article, titled “Keith McNally Absolutely Loathes Thomas Straker. Loathes.”, leans heavily into the unlikely feud while acknowledging that McNally apparently loves Straker’s cooking.
That contradiction is, frankly, peak McNally.
The legendary New York restaurateur—whose empire includes institutions such as Balthazar, Pastis and Minetta Tavern—has become almost as famous for his Instagram commentary as he is for his restaurants. His social-media posts have previously sparked very public celebrity feuds, including his infamous 2022 confrontation with James Corden.
But this time, the target is a little closer to home: Vanity Fair itself.
McNally has reportedly threatened action against the publication over what he believes is an unfair portrayal, adding another layer to a story already involving restaurant history, Soho real estate and two strong personalities who clearly don’t mind making their opinions known.
And there’s a delicious irony here.
Straker is preparing to open his first New York restaurant in the former Lucky Strike space—a location once occupied by McNally. Yet despite his public dislike of Straker, McNally has admitted that he intends to eat there regularly because, well, the man apparently makes very good food.
That’s the thing about Keith McNally: the man may hold a grudge, but apparently he knows when to separate the chef from the dinner.
For NYC restaurant-watchers, the developing Keith McNally vs. Vanity Fair saga is another reminder that downtown dining drama is never just about what’s on the plate.
Sometimes, the real entrée is the feud.
